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Mangalsutra- Demystifying Diamond Cuts

Kajal Nair, a Mumbai-based Jewellery Designer tells you more about Uncut and Rose-cut Diamonds.

Kajal Nair, a Mumbai-based Jewellery Designer tells you more about Uncut and Rose-cut Diamonds

Rose-cuts, Kundan and Polki, once the exclusive preserve of Indian Royalty are now a fashion statement and are increasingly synonymous with wedding jewellery. But how many of us really know the difference between the terms?

Rose cuts were a style of diamonds popular in the 17th century– they are typically flat bottomed with the facets or cuts on the visible surface.

Rose cuts, based on quality come in different price ranges but are less expensive than faceted (or cut) diamonds used in modern jewellery like engagement rings.

Earring and pendant set in Rose-cut diamonds and yellow and white gold , perfect for a Sangeet or a cocktail party

Jewellery with Rose cut diamonds depending on the style can be teamed with traditional Indian creations like lehangas, anarkalis and sarees or even western wear

Western style hoops in Rose-cut diamonds of various colours – white, light brown, coffee brown and black diamonds set in white gold

Kundan jewellery uses Meena- an Indian enamelling technique, where the surface of the metal is decorated with a design using multiple colours. E.g. the backs of Mughal style necklaces have a decorative pattern on the metal surface. Kundan jewellery could be in silver or gold with or without diamonds and other precious stones.


Kundan style gold earrings with Rose-cut diamonds and meenakari work on the reverse of the earrings.

Kundan style gold set with un-cut diamonds set in gold

Polki is a style of Kundan jewellery that originated during the Mughal rule. Polki jewellery are with uncut diamonds that are completely un-faceted (look like frosted bits of glass) or Rose cuts that are partially faceted.

Wondering how to go about choosing and buying Polki jewellery with good quality diamonds?

While single pieces of uncut diamonds are larger and may cost less than polished ones, they are stocked by fewer jewellers, due to the lower resale value factor. Basically, when you buy an uncut diamond jeweller piece, you invest in a piece of art. Except for cut which is irrelevant, all the other Cs – Colour, Clarity and Carat hold good for uncut and Rose-cut diamonds.

Colour is the most important factor. The whiter (or more colorless) the diamond, the more expensive it will be.

Clarity is another important determinant of diamond quality and price.

Don’t be fixated with clarity as Polki doesn’t require diamonds to be of high clarity. Median clarity is ideal and there is no need for VVS or VS clarity. Having said that clarity is not relevant to uncut diamonds it is only relevant to Rose-cut diamonds.

As far as Carat or size of the diamonds go it is entirely driven by the design you choose and of course your budget.

Enjoy shopping for the exotic stones!


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