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Anatomy of a Groom’s Suit

SS HOMME co-founders Sandeep Gonsalves and Sarah Shaikh guide you on how to pick the right Fabric, and decode its various facets for you to look your sartorial best on your Wedding Day.

How to pick the right Fabric for your occasion, climate and personal style. Fabrics are the spirit of any ensemble‚ defining its intrinsic traits as well as its tangible appeal. However, in our quest for Style Nirvana, we often commit the blasphemy of not paying sufficient attention to this discipline of the Warp and Weft.

We decode the various facets of Fabrics for you to look your sartorial best on your Wedding Day.

1. What you should know about Fibres

Clothing is a correspondence between form and function. By opting for synthetic fibres, one compromises on the latter by narrowly pursuing the former.
– Thus, though Polyester blends may be wrinkle resistant they offer no respite from our tropical weather woes because synthetic fibers lack breathability.
– Historically, having being linked to nobility, natural fabrics such as Wool, Linen and Silk have greater social value.
– Use blends such as Wool Cashmere, Wool Silk, Wool Linen and so on to maximize the fibers utilitarian capacity. While Wool being sturdy ensures that the garment retains its shape for long hours, Silk lends the attire a delicate luster and Linen improves the cloths ability to soak moisture.
– Super 120’s to 150’s is a good range to work with when opting for Wool. A higher count implies finer fabric. But a finer fabric, being delicate, is more sensitive to wear and tear.

Wool Silk Double Breasted Suit

Wool Silk Linen Bandis


2. How to use Colors to your advantage

– If your preference leans towards Western classics such as Suits, Tuxedos and Dinner Jackets experiment with unconventional Blues, Blacks and Grey.
– Within this spectrum, move from wearing lighter shades in the day to donning darker ones at night. 
– Introduce jewel tones of Red, Purple, Green and so on through your accoutrements‚ a hint of these radiant colors will guarantee that your Suit exudes an air of distinction without appearing austere.
-Traditional Bandhgalas and Nehru Jackets limit the scope of introducing secondary and tertiary hues to your attire because not much of one’s shirt is visible and the possibility of flaunting multiple accessories is limited. Thus, the onus of conjuring a charming impression lies on the primary garment alone.
– Those with a lean physique should opt for poised pastels such as Powder Blue, Tangerine and Mint while the converse is counselled for larger body types.
– Choose a dark but impressive shade (such as Maroon, Burgundy or Emerald) to grant your silhouette a slimmer appearance.

Maroon Velvet Bandi


3. Patterns Vs Textures

Understated in their appeal yet pronounced in character, textured fabrics make for coy flirts. Without being garish they add an element of intrigue to your attire.
– Before finalizing your fabric be well versed with weaves such as Birdseye, Hopsack, Sharkskin and so on.
– Interesting textures can also be obtained by blending different fibers.
– Consult an established designer to know the innumerable options available.

Birdseye Textured Tuxedo & Rust Dinner Jacket

– Because they comprise of more than one color, the variation (in fabrics) that patterns bring about are more articulate. Reserve your striking Houndstooth Blazers and Wide Checked Suits for the more informal yet intimate occasions.

Houndstooth Suit with a Cobalt Waistcoat

To end with a simple mantra, as the seers of fashion would say, let comfort command your clothing.

Ease is elegance.

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